Leather & Sustainability: Can You Have Both? The Ultimate Guide to Ethical Shopping
When it comes to buying leather goods, the options can be overwhelming. Whether you're eyeing a designer leather bag, a sleek wallet, or a trendy vegan leather accessory, there’s a lot to consider. Leather is often seen as synonymous with luxury, but it’s also tied to some serious environmental and ethical concerns. So how do you make an informed decision while still shopping responsibly? Let’s break it all down.
In this post, I’ll guide you through the complexities of leather, from understanding vegan leather myths to exploring ethical alternatives and tips for finding sustainably made leather items that will last you a lifetime.
The Vegan Leather Myth: Not Always the Sustainable Choice
Let’s start with a huge misconception in the world of ethical fashion: vegan leather is not always the better, more sustainable option. In fact, when it comes to the environment, it can sometimes be worse than real leather.
You see, vegan leather is usually made from polyurethane (PU) or other plastic-based materials. While it’s marketed as cruelty-free because it’s made without animal products, these synthetic materials are not biodegradable. This means they’ll sit in landfills for years after they’ve outlived their usefulness. Furthermore, these plastic-based alternatives are often treated with chemical coatings that can be harmful to the environment.
Now, I know what you’re thinking: “But isn’t vegan leather better for animals?” While it’s true that no animals are harmed to make synthetic leather, it’s not necessarily better for the planet. The environmental cost of producing PU or PVC is significant, as these materials require large amounts of energy to manufacture and are derived from fossil fuels.
Traditional Leather
On the other hand, real leather is a by-product of the beef industry, which means it doesn’t directly cause additional harm to animals. Leather’s been around for thousands of years, and while it’s far from perfect, it’s actually more sustainable than plastic-based alternatives. Plus, leather tends to last a lot longer than synthetic options, which means you don’t have to replace it as often. And unlike plastics, real leather is biodegradable, making it a better option for the environment in the long run.
That said, when you start looking at the sheer size of the modern leather industry, things get a little more complicated. What was once considered just a by-product is now a major player in a $100 billion market, raising some serious questions about its ethics and sustainability. So, what’s really going on? We’ve done the research to help you make an informed choice—whether you’re leaning toward leather or trying to avoid it.
The truth is, traditional leather production is far from environmentally friendly. The global demand for leather means that the process has a huge impact on the planet. To meet this demand, millions of animal hides are processed every year to make everything from shoes (which make up about half of all leather use) to handbags, furniture, and more. In total, the world produces around 6 million tonnes of leather annually, sourced from over 344 million cows, 571 million sheep, and 364 million goats. That’s a staggering number when you stop and think about it.
Can Leather be ethical?
The simple answer is: no. Nowadays, “ethical” production considers a wide variety of things, from working conditions to the actual fairness of the deal between producers, owners, sellers, and resellers; the use of natural resources, and stocking and travel methods. The more scrutiny we put on the supply chain, the more demanding the criteria becomes. From wages, breaks, and healthcare, to the impact on the community and preventing exploitation of women and children, “ethical” is not a simple label but an overarching approach to production.
Ethical leather would have to consider all of these impacts on the people involved, and that’s before even considering the welfare of the main group affected: the animals.
Ethics considers how they are raised, treated, fed, and how and when they are slaughtered. Cows, for example, are killed so young that they only live, on average, 18 months of their twenty-year life expectancy before they are slaughtered. The real question is: can the act of killing animals for any utility purpose ever be considered ethical? A survey carried out by Vogue Business found that 37% of people in the UK and 23% in the US think leather is “inappropriate in fashion”. And while the leather trend was again spiking in 2020 fashion shows, it all comes back to the demands of consumers. That is to say, your demands. As the fur trade is slowly being cut out of luxury labels due to the action of animal rights advocates, leather faces similar charges. As long as there is a meat industry, leather is likely to be tolerated. Still, considering the major sustainability issues it raises, it is only a matter of time before it decreases and faces moderation—or transformation.
Lab-grown leather?
Another option is lab-grown leather. As the food industry shifts towards non-animal meat alternatives for health, environmental, and ethical reasons (with experts predicting plant-based and lab-grown meat will make up 60% of the market by 2040), fashion is starting to explore a future without traditional leather. Several startups are already developing high-end lab-grown leather, though it’s still a bit too early to say when it will become mainstream. At first, it’ll likely be more expensive than regular leather, but as technology advances and the market evolves, we’re expecting prices to eventually drop below that of leather from cows. And the best part? When that happens, you won’t be able to tell the difference.
Animal products and indigenous peoples
For some remote indigenous communities, animal skins are one of the few sources of income that help their people survive and thrive. Take, for example, certain Inuit groups in Canada, who rely on sealing as a vital part of their livelihood. While the practice has been heavily criticized by animal rights groups and condemned on a global scale, that perspective often overlooks the reality of these communities. The commercial sealing industry is undeniably brutal and outdated, but indigenous peoples argue that their approach is fundamentally different. They only take what they need, use every part of the animal sustainably, and never hunt young pups or "whitecoats"—the images often shown in activist campaigns. Similar practices can be found in the Asian Highlands with yak-herding communities, and among indigenous Australians' relationship with kangaroos. While factory and industrial farming practices are certainly cruel and in desperate need of reform, these examples of indigenous hunting and animal use represent only a tiny fraction of the overall animal deaths. Criticizing these traditional practices while ignoring the mass scale of Western cattle farming feels inconsistent at best—and may be rooted in colonial and racial biases.
Leather Tanning: What You Need to Know About Chrome vs. Vegetable Tanning
If you’re going to buy leather, it’s important to understand how it’s processed. Leather is tanned to preserve its natural state, and there are two main methods: chrome tanning and vegetable tanning.
Chrome tanning is the most common method and it involves using chromium salts and other chemicals to speed up the tanning process. The result is a soft, durable leather that can be dyed in a wide range of colors. However, chrome tanning has a significant environmental impact. The chemicals used in the tanning process are toxic, and they can leach into the surrounding soil and water, causing harm to the local ecosystem.
On the other hand, vegetable tanning uses plant-based materials, like oak bark, chestnut, or sumac, to create a more natural, slow tanning process. The result is leather that’s slightly stiffer at first but becomes more supple with time, developing a beautiful patina. While vegetable tanning is more labor-intensive and takes longer, it’s significantly more eco-friendly. The chemicals used are non-toxic, and the leather is completely biodegradable.
For those who care deeply about sustainability, vegetable-tanned leather is the way to go. It’s a bit of a luxury option, but if you’re willing to spend a bit more, it’s worth it for the durability, eco-friendliness, and unique aging process.
The Hidden Costs of Luxury Leather Bags
There’s no denying that designer leather bags are a status symbol. They’re often marketed as high-quality, timeless pieces worth the hefty price tag. But here's the thing, you're not just paying for the leather, when you buy a luxury bag. You're paying for the brand name, exclusivity, and often an inflated markup that doesn't necessarily reflect the quality or ethics behind the product.
Take a moment to think about it: many luxury leather brands use chrome-tanned leather, which we already know is chemically intensive and harmful to the environment. Some brands have been criticized for their lack of transparency around production practices, and many have been linked to labor exploitation in developing countries.
As consumers, we’ve been conditioned to believe that luxury equals quality. But when it comes to leather bags, the truth is that you could be paying $3,000 for something that cost the brand a fraction of that to produce, with questionable labor practices thrown in for good measure.
So, what’s the solution? If you’re a fan of high-quality leather bags, it’s important to do your research. Look for brands that prioritize sustainable sourcing, ethical production, and fair wages. Don’t just settle for the designer label — ask yourself what your money is supporting.
Upcycled Leather: A Sustainable and Stylish Option
If you're really looking to take sustainability up a notch, consider upcycled leather. This is leather that’s been repurposed from old items like vintage bags or leftover scraps to create new accessories. It's a great way to give leather a second life and keep it out of landfills.
Not only is upcycled leather eco-friendly, but it also has a unique charm. Every piece tells its own story and has a distinct character, and often, these items come at a fraction of the price of brand-new leather goods. So, if you're after something with a bit more personality and history, upcycled leather might just be the perfect option.
More and more brands are now focusing on using scrap or reclaimed leather to craft new products, offering an ethical alternative that doesn’t compromise on quality or style.
At the same time, it’s clear that our fast fashion habits are taking a toll on the environment. While some might dream of a world where leather only comes from animals who’ve lived long, happy lives, the reality is that every square meter of hide is a valuable resource, and one that’s often wasted. To make real progress, we need to shift toward a model that values longevity over consumption, encouraging us to buy less and invest in things that last. This includes supporting a strong secondary market for leather, which helps with recycling and upcycling old leather goods. Simply put, secondhand is the most ethical and sustainable choice when it comes to leather. It takes advantage of all the leather that’s already out there, rather than relying on new hides, which contribute to suffering for animals, people, and the planet. So, next time you're eyeing a classic leather jacket, always consider vintage or secondhand first. They're timeless, and thrift shops are full of hidden gems!
Labels and certifications for more sustainable leather
If you do decide to purchase new leather goods, keep an eye out for these labels and certifications to ensure you are investing in a more sustainable option.
Remember: full supply chain traceability is the major criteria here. Most luxury and middle-range brands value their craftsmanship heritage and the use of traditional “Italian leather”. The choice of retailers between using leather over alternatives results from a calculation lacking traceable proof. It has more to do with how they are informed about their supply chain processes. That is why initiatives arose to offer retailers reassurance on the origin of the leather used in their products and establish more accountability. Note that no robust, sustainable leather standard has emerged despite some attempts, but a few labels are making a decent start to look out for when shopping:
Leather Working Group: assesses the environmental compliance of leather manufacturers. Look out specifically for gold medal tanneries, and note that even then the welfare or traceability of the animals is not guaranteed
EU Ecolabel: the official EU label with criteria for many types of products
Rainforest Alliance: the frog logo indicates the production meets specific ethical and environmental criteria
Trase: an online tool developed by the Stockholm Environment Institute and Global Canopy that tracks supply chains against deforestation
What about leather alternatives?
Vegan leather, that is, leather made without animal materials, is becoming increasingly popular. But it is important to remember that, while it might be better for the animals, standard vegan leather creates environmental issues too if it uses synthetic plastic-based materials like PU and PVC—though still far less than animal leather. Thankfully, there are a whole host of vegan leather alternatives that are exciting from a purely ethical standpoint, and more and more brands are incorporating them into their collections! A few standouts are:
Pineapple leather: Pinatex, made from cellulose fibre of pineapple leaves
Apple leather: derived from the apple industry’s food waste
Recycled rubber: made of everything from old tyres to fire hoses
Cork: a naturally renewable fibre extracted from cork oak trees
Emerging bio-based leathers
While we are thrilled to see more animal-friendly leathers emerging in the market, because they are so new, it is difficult at this stage to pinpoint their sustainability. Good On You deliberately keeps the three core pillars of people, planet, and animals separate when rating brands. From a purely animal welfare perspective, the best option is to use no animal products or co-products, so these vegan leathers meet animal expectations!
From an environmental perspective, however, much more research needs to be done on these newcomers. Most of them are being produced with little to no publicly available data underpinning their sustainability credentials. They may make claims around biodegradability, but most of them only partially biodegrade. They are also usually mixed with synthetic polymers, and the chemicals process is quite secretive. Even these more sustainable alternatives aren’t perfect, and as ever, we encourage you to decide what to purchase based on your own needs and values.
Great Leather Without the Luxury Price Tag
If you're still craving that premium leather quality but want to shop more ethically, there are several brands out there doing things right. These brands source leather responsibly, ensure fair labor practices, and avoid the markups found in luxury fashion. I’ve personally reviewed these brands over the past month for sustainability, quality, price and more.
Here are a few of my favorite sustainable leather brands:
VerteMode: Naturally, I’d recommend VerteMode. I founded the company in 2023 with a clear mission: to offer customers high-quality, ethically crafted products while supporting small and medium-sized businesses. VerteMode features a range of goods, from upcycled leather items to handcrafted genuine leather pieces, all made by artisans who use responsibly sourced, eco-friendly materials. Our collection includes timeless, versatile, and durable bags, wallets, and accessories, crafted with care to last for years. Explore our collection and experience the difference!
Cuyana: Known for their minimalist aesthetic and “fewer, better” philosophy, Cuyana offers sustainably made leather goods with a focus on quality and longevity. Their leather is sourced responsibly, and they emphasize a slow fashion approach to production, making each piece with attention to detail and a commitment to environmental stewardship.
Allégorie: For those who want to go completely animal-free, Allégorie creates gorgeous bags using innovative, plant-based materials like apple leather and pineapple leather (yes, you read that right!). These vegan leathers look and feel like real leather but are made from agricultural waste. Plus, Allégorie is a woman-owned business with a focus on sustainability and ethical manufacturing.
Pixie Mood: Offering trendy and eco-conscious bags made from recycled materials and plant-based leather, Pixie Mood is a great choice for anyone looking to make a fashion statement without breaking the bank.
Noah: Noah creates cruelty-free and 100% vegan shoes and accessories. This German brand's high-quality and long-lasting shoes are hand-crafted in Italy, using a small proportion of lower-impact materials.
Stella McCartney: A member of the Ethical Trading Initiative and Sustainable Apparel Coalition, Stella McCartney has set some excellent environmental standards across the luxury fashion industry. Stella uses some lower-impact materials, including recycled polyester and organic cotton, and has a strategy in place to reduce waste across its entire supply chain. It has also adopted the ETI Code of Conduct that includes a living wage definition.
Svala: Svala creates luxury vegan handbags, purses, bags, and totes. Each bag is handcrafted responsibly in LA with high-quality, premium vegan leather, cork, and Piñatex.
Baggu: Known for their durable, reusable totes and bags, Baggu is a great option for everyday leather accessories that are practical and affordable. Plus, their designs are simple, versatile, and perfect for anyone who prefers a minimalist aesthetic.
Quince: If you’re looking for a more luxury feel without the huge price tag, Quince offers high-quality leather goods made with sustainable materials. They focus on reducing unnecessary costs by cutting out the middleman, so you get more bang for your buck.
Mashu: Mashu is a British more sustainable vegan accessories label specialising in handbags. Mashu’s environmental rating is "Good", crafting its exterior with vegan leather alternatives while its interiors feature vegan suede made from recycled polyester, ensuring you never have to sacrifice your morals for style again.
VEERAH: NYC-based designer vegan shoe company founded and led by women to "do good and look incredible". Its innovative apple peel leather shoe collection is crafted with cushioned insoles made from algae blooms. Each pair is transformative with interchangeable shoe accessories to create more looks with less. It is made for warriors "killin' it with kindness".
ID.EIGH: Italian brand that was born from the meeting between Dong Seon Lee and Giuliana Borzillo, both come from the world of footwear, where they worked and met. Together they have created a more ethical and sustainable collection of sneakers with a refined design. The shoes are made in Italy with lower-impact materials from food industry waste such as apple peels, grape stalks and seeds, and pineapple leaves, as well as recycled cotton and polyester.
BEEN London: London-based brand turning waste into timeless accessories you’d want to use every day. All its products are made from materials that have been something else in a previous life, including recycled leather offcuts and plastic bottles.
Beaumont Organic: UK-based slow fashion brand that blends simple style with ethical production practices. Founded by Hannah Beaumont-Laurencia, the brand uses better materials, like recycled leather and also has its own charitable foundation which supports people in Fiji. Find the range in sizes XS-L.
Conclusion: Making Conscious Choices for a Sustainable Wardrobe
Above all, remember that the most sustainable choice is always to use what you already own. If you have leather items that are still in good condition, don’t be afraid to give them a little TLC. Whether you’re buying new or upcycling, make your choices count and invest in pieces that will serve you well for years to come.
If you found this guide helpful, feel free to share it with a friend who’s on a similar sustainability journey. Let’s all do our part to make more ethical choices, for the planet, for animals, and for future generations.